It’s been a while, like nearly a year, since I said I would post the pattern to the doll PJs. Better late than never, right? ;)
For this project you will need:
- fabric, 13 1/2 x 24 inches
- elastic, 11 1/2 inches(I like to use 1/4 inch baby elastic).
- thread, scissors, straight pins, sewing machine, iron, all that good stuff.
- and the pattern (download here).
To start, you’ll first need to download the pattern, extract the files, and print them out.
You should have two pages, one labeled “top” and one labeled “bottom”. You’ll want to overlap these by one inch (there is a noticeable gap on the top piece where you can match the lines on the pattern up). Tape them across the seams on both front and back sides of the papers. Cut this out.
Next, fold your fabric. Lay it out, pretty side down, so your fabric is long, not wide. Fold it in half, and then fold it in half again.
You should end up with a fold like this:
Next, lay your pattern on your fabric, making sure that the fold on your pattern is also on the fold of your fabric.
Cut this out.
I used a rotary cutter, it helped to use my straight edge guide for the sides and the top slant. If you are using scissors, you’ll want to pin this pattern to your fabric.
You should end up with two pieces like this:
The next thing you’ll want to do is to overcast stitch, or serge, the edges of the top and bottom (narrowest parts on the fabric). It isn’t a “must” but makes for a prettier edge (that is how my grandma taught my mom and how my mom taught me.. one of the first places she would look on any finished project, were the insides to see if the work was neat). It also helps so your fabric won’t fray and unravel after many wearings and washings.
An “overcast stitch” is when you zig-zag stitch right on the edge of you fabric, casting the stitch over the edge, just a little, and by doing that, it folds and tucks the very edge of the raw edge underneath itself. I looked in my machine’s user manual and found the settings I needed to be able to do this.
If you have chosen to do this, the next step is simple: fold over the bottom edge 1/2 inch (this is the cuff of the pant leg), press it, pin it and straight stitch it 1/4 inch in.
(This is much easier to do right now, before the two sides are joined.)
Next, put both pieces, pretty sides together, and pin just the top sides.
Now we’ll straight stitch first, from the top corner to the little point near the middle.
(This is the straight edge, not the curved one.)
After you’ve straight stitched both sides, over cast stitch if desired.
After you’ve done that, you need to lay them out, opened, so the seam that you just stitched is facing you. Join the two seams in the middle, and start pinning there. Pin down each leg.
Sew from the bottom of one leg to the crotch and stop. Do the same thing to the other side. This ensures that your seams line up in the middle. I like to overcast stitch the edges after this too.
Don’t they look like pants now? :)
We are almost done!
Fold down the top of your pants, 1 inch. Press and pin. You’ll straight stitch this 3/4 of an inch from your folded edge. Make sure to leave a gap open. This is the casing for your elastic for the waist.
Since we already overcast stitched (or serged) that edge in the beginning, you shouldn’t have any raw, feathery edges bugging you right now. Feed your elastic through (I like to put a safety pin in one end of my elastic, and feed that through the casing, a good friend taught me that trick). Pin your ends together and sew them with a few stitches. Stretch out the waistband, and straight stitch your casing shut.
Turn them right-side out, and you did it!
Isn’t your doll so happy?
Your little girl will be too. ;)